Last week I visited my tailor to see new fabrics and —were I to find the right one— order a new suit. Today, I had my first fitting.
My Go-to Tailor
My tailor (Ginza Takahashi) offers his services in two separate price plans: The full-price, hand-made bespoke suit, and the more accessible hybrid, or made-to-order suit.
Unlike most budget made-to-measure offerings so common nowadays, the hybrid plan still gets you a pattern from scratch. Made-to-measure plans typically consist of small adjustments to an preexisting pattern, and this places limitations if you have unconventioanl body type. For example, you can only strecth the sleeves so much before having to switch to adifferent patter, which might in turn have (say) the chest too wide.
Also, you still get to decide on all the details pertaining to design such lapel width, trouser rise, number and orientation of trouser pleats, etc. If you dislike current fashion trends as much as I do (and aspire to a more classic, timeless style) this makes or breaks the deal.
The main differences with their full-price option are that: the process uses CAD technology to design the pattern and cut the cloth, the available fabrics are at a lower price range, and you get just one fitting before completion, instead of the customary two.
I always order my business suits on the cheaper plan, but four years ago, when I ordered a dinner jacket on the occasion of my wedding, I went with the full-monty. It set me back around 4 grand, but it was worth it: that level of fit customization are impossible to achieve any other way (off-the-rack or made-to-measure), and I've worn it at least 5 or 6 times per year since:
What I Wanted This Time Around
I've been wanting a light-colored, summer-oriented suit for some time now. Originally, I was thinking of something sober and traditional such as light gray, single-breasted 3-roll-two, notch lapel suit. Perhaps double-breasted, like Robert DeNiro in Heat.
So I visited my tailor last week, and after checking all the available fabric swatches within my budget, I ended up deciding on a cream suit, single breasted, one-button peak lapel, with turn-ups (trouser cuffs). Today I had the first fitting: a roughly assembled first cut, to check for minor size and cut adjustments prior to the final assembly.
The Fitting
First thing is wearing the provissionally assembled trousers. Ignore the clip-on suspenders for the time being: at this stage, there are no susppender buttons, side adjusters, or belt loops attached!
After checking that all measures, and writing down how much must be added or taken here and there, the staff proceeds to carefully 'rip' the sleeves off the suit, using seam cutters.
It looks like a gimmick (or the reenactment of a Laurel & Hardy gag), but for them it's actually easier to take apart while you are wearing it, than when it lies flat on the table.
Finally, I must decide on the buttons. The one type I liked the most in terms of color ended up being a bit too small (espacially for a single-button jacket on a man of my size); the one that was just right in terms of size, had the matching cuff buttons too large instead. I opted for the former. If it ends up bothering me much, I cna always have them changed down the road...
Next up is the final fitting, on the day of delivery. Looking forward to it!
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